Camino Wander #3: The Full Experience?

In preparation for my third Camino, I’ve been listening to fellow pilgrims who walked in 2024. One thing I keep hearing is how much busier the Camino has become.

It’s been six years since my last walk, and back then, we only booked accommodations a couple of days ahead. My husband likes to know exactly where we’ll end up each day—he’s an A-to-B walker—while I’m more of a “stop and smell the roses” kind of person. It worked fine at the time, but now, the Camino exponentially busier.

This does limit me a bit, especially on days when I’m completely exhausted and don’t feel like walking lots of kilometres. But I’ve set a goal for myself: an average of 15 kilometres a day. That means there will be some longer stretches, but I’ve planned it so that after those, I’ll have shorter days to recover.

I’m staying in new places while also returning to familiar comforts, which should help during the tougher stretches where comfort is necessary.

But there are some big differences compared to my previous Caminos:

🥾 First, I’m walking the entire route this time—something I didn’t do on either of my last two Caminos.

In 2018, I skipped from Frómista to León on the Meseta because I had no desire to trek across a treeless plain in the heat. Instead, I hopped on a train, realising I could do that kind of walk anywhere in Australia! My husband and I made a similar decision in 2019. But this time? I’m committing to walking the entire Meseta!

🥾 I’ve given myself 63 days to walk the Camino this time. I walked the Camino in 2018 and it took me 45 days. In 2019, it took 54 days. But skipping 100kms on the Meseta allowed for a shorter time.

🥾 Another big change: I’m not walking from Sarria to Santiago.

Why? Well, statistically, 75% of people who ‘hike’ the Camino only cover that last hundred kilometres. That’s traditionally been the requirement for receiving a Compostela upon arrival in Santiago. The rules have changed slightly, but most will likely stick with that plan. Many first-time pilgrims choose that section due to time constraints or simply to experience a taste of the Camino. Either way, it makes that stretch incredibly crowded. After walking over 700 kilometres, the last thing I want is to be surrounded by hordes of people—so I’m taking an alternative route into Santiago.

Once I reach Sarria, I’ll take a train south to Pontevedra and walk part of the Portuguese Camino via the Spiritual Variant—a journey that typically takes about five days (though some do it faster). This route will be less crowded and take me through fishing villages and lush forests. I’ll even be taking a boat ride—something recognised as an acceptable form of pilgrimage transportation!

🥾 I’m booking ahead and so far, it’s really paid off!

For example, I’ll finally be staying in O Cebreiro—a place I’ve never stayed before but have always wanted to. I’m even splurging on a private room to ensure I enjoy the experience!

I’ve also booked a few albergues I’ve been curious about. One is a donativo where friends have volunteered, and another is highly rated on Camino forums.

I’m catching up with Susi and Fermin at Casa Susi’s for two nights, which will be fantastic! I can’t wait to see them both again. (If you’ve read CAMINO WANDERING, you’ll understand how important they are to me and my Camino experience!)

I’ve booked a night in a Parador! I’ve always wanted to stay in one, but it always felt like too much of a splurge. However, I don’t want to regret not doing it—especially if this turns out to be my last Camino (never say never, right?). A little luxury with a dash of history sounds like the perfect indulgence.

I’ll also be staying in two hotels with thermal pools. I planned to stay in hotels in major cities since hotels are great for the rest days, and both my choices in Pamplona and León have thermal pools. There’s even a thermal pool on the Meseta, which I’m particularly excited about. Anything to soothe sore muscles!

 

I’m looking forward to seeing what the Camino has to offer after six long years—especially knowing how much both the Camino and I have changed since my last walk.

 

If you’d like to follow my Camino wander (as I walk in 2025), I’ll be publishing on Substack, and randomly on Facebook.